10 THINGS TO LOOK FOR IN A QUALITY ITEM
When I am buying something (first-hand) there are several factors that I look for before purchasing - eco and ethical credentials on the one-hand and quality of the item, on the other, both in how it’s made and what it’s made from. Whilst eco-ethical and quality can go hand in hand (there’s a lot of hands going on!), some things are simply made better than others. Overall quality comes into sustainability, the better quality a piece is, the longer you and/or others will be able to enjoy it. So, let's take a closer look at what quality boils down to as it can be tricky to know where to begin...
Social media offers a resource at your fingertips, and often in digestible chunks, to learn new information about the fashion industry. Andrea Cheong’s appraisal of current season buys, with insider insights into quality seams, hems, pockets, linings etc. is a great learning tool which I recommend.
I also take the below list into consideration before purchasing an item:
RESEARCH THE BRAND
From whether the pieces are made in a conscious way to how much the garment workers are getting paid, it is important to know the ethics behind an item as well as the brand you are supporting through purchasing it. If the ethics and the eco-credentials lineup then this is a good place to start before purchasing. Mass-produced items that come at overly affordable prices can well mean cheap labour, bad ethics, and poor finish (more below) if not synthetic fabrics (more below) on top. Once you’ve done the initial research you can continue to support these brands whenever you need to buy a new item.
WHAT IS IT MADE FROM?
The type of material used is crucial to the longevity of our clothes - it will affect how they wash and wear and ultimately look and feel on your body, so it’s worth checking the care label to understand exactly what you’re buying. Materials that have stood the test of time aesthetically, if cared for properly, are fabrics such as high thread count cotton, linen, wool, leather and silk, or a more recently developed TENCEL™ fibre made from wood pulp, all of which will eventually biodegrade in suitable conditions due to their natural makeup. Synthetic materials ‘last’ even longer taking hundreds of years to biodegrade but don’t have the same wearable life span. Take a look at some of the items in your wardrobe - from polyester fleece to nylon leggings which have aged badly in your wardrobe in areas where they rub or simply from being washed. Try ‘the Wrinkle Test’ that eco-fashion experts swear which can help you determine whether a piece is made of quality materials. It says that if you can scrunch a corner or edge of a piece and it can’t hold it for a nano-second (an indication of its synthetic nature - think non-iron wrinkle-free shirts and dresses!) then the piece of clothing in question may not be the best quality for long term aesthetic appearance.
CROWD SOURCE INFORMATION
If the brand has a website, checking the reviews section can also be an excellent resource to determine how an item fares once it’s been worn and washed before you make the purchase - for example, does the fabric start to sag? Does it bobble or shrink on washing? Is the pattern misaligned at the joins? Is the hem badly sewn? Did the stitching pull after one wear?
ORGANIC OR NOT?
When pieces are made from natural fabrics it is key to see whether they have been ethically sourced, farmed or whether they are organic or not. It can also help to determine whether pesticides have been used during the growing process. It is always worth looking out for stamps and labels like GOTS (the textile meets world-recognised organic requirements) and Standard 100 by Oeko Tex (the textile has been tested for harmful substances and that is therefore harmless for human health). Organic certifications also offer better peace of mind in regards to the welfare of those who work directly to manufacture the piece. It means minimal (and no harmful) chemicals were used in the production process which ultimately means workers are not exposed to dangerous substances that can cause long-term health effects.
CAN IT BE REPAIRED?
Many modern brands and eco-forward companies will offer in-house repair services for any tears, rips or issues that require some technical tlc often for no cost at all! For example, Nudie jeans promise free repairs forever and Patagonia will repair any wear and tear of their pieces (but with larger items, there may be a small fee). It’s an official brand stamp that they stand behind the quality of their items. Also take a look at Uniqlo’s designated repair studio in the Regent Street, London store where you can take anything ie. not just your Uniqlo items, to be repaired and/or customised - a service I hope to see present on every high-street!
CHECK INSIDE THE GARMENT
Check the insides including the label. According to Andrea Cheong the care label is the most important part of any purchase (see below). But it is just as important to check the stitching, whether or not it has been overlocked and whether seams are firm and well sewn. If not, it can indicate that a piece may not have been sewn to high-standard and may need repairs down the line or easily look cheap and unsightly from a small amount of wear. Andrea recommends at all costs, to avoid synthetic blends made with acetate, acrylic or polyester.
HOW CAN I (AND WILL I) LOOK AFTER IT?
Looking after the quality piece you buy is as important as any research you do before your purchase. Some garments need a little bit more looking after than others. For example, organic cotton is known to shrink, so to reduce any shrinkage or possibility of colour fading hand wash it or choose the delicate/hand wash option on your machine. Cashmere pieces also require a little more TLC, such as a cashmere and wool care kit which together will ensure the piece stays in optimal condition for as long as possible. Knitwear and some jerseys should be stored flat rather than hung to maintain their shape (the shape may also need to be addressed before you dry it see below) and you might also need to consider protection from moths! Read my tips here for how to deter and remove moths as well as fix any damage they cause!
It is also worth thinking about the long-term effects of wear on a garment, particularly with knitwear, many of my favourite jumpers require de-bobbling before every season, which can be done by hand or a small machine shaver, like this one from The Steamery who also have a handy travel version.
And if the label says dry clean only…. I wash quite a few ‘dry clean’ pieces on the delicate cycle on my machine or by hand - but do so at your own risk! I first check the material and then look online at what temperature it can take and tips on how to. If an item can’t be hand washed (or you don’t want to risk anything like that) then this might mean the item isn’t for you. Conventional dry cleaning isn’t great for the environment, your health or your pocket (though there are green dry cleaning premises out there they are few and far between and even more ‘spenny’). If that means you have a dirty/tatty/saggy/sad-looking item you can’t refresh then the initial quality goes out the window.
It is also worth thinking about what type of heat is going to be best for your quality items. Steaming is best for taking care of delicate fabrics, it’s also great for refreshing and deodorising clothes (so they need to be washed less often) and it’s also the more eco-friendly option to an iron apparently! Thick materials like heavy cottons and linen might need an iron for a crease-free finish (this is where the way you hang to dry makes a big difference!) - so if you’re adverse to ironing and don’t have a steamer try to shake clothing straight out of the wash (except knitwear) and carefully hang to avoid creasing (use hangers or leave lots of space on the drying rack). Knitwear usually needs shaping by hand post wash and then drying flat on towels or racks. Tumble drying can easily ruin clothes if you don’t use the right setting or through continued use and isn’t great for energy bills or the environment!
CAN IT HAVE A LIFE AFTER I’VE WORN IT?
Many brands are starting to offer a trade-in scheme. For example, Mulberry and Selfridges (via ReSelfridges) have both launched projects where you can trade in your pieces for credit. This is when quality comes into play - even the most well-loved items of good quality still have value after wear.
You can also revive quality pieces that have have been worn and loved, The Restory have an in-house network of multi-talented artisans who can bring a quality item back to life whether that be fixing colour wear, mending broken bits or, renewing and renovating an item if it’s quality enough to be able to do so.
HOW MANY WERE MADE?
This is something that I learnt more about while working with the team at Damson Madder to curate my edit. Small production runs mean less eventual wastage as a specific amount is only made and when it is gone, it’s gone! Brands that only make what stores have ordered (it’s a common practice by companies to make another 20% volume on top ‘just in case’ or to meet minimum production runs) are only supplying what’s required. Alohas’ business is based on a pre-order model so they are able to calculate the exact number of units needed. It means there is a delay for the buyer but good things come to those who wait and in a world of fast fashion it feels good to make a timely decision. Seek out brands who offer transparency on production runs or who offer a pre-order/limited-edition model.
DO I NEED TO PURCHASE IT
Before you purchase, we now have the options of swapping, renting or purchasing vintage pieces before buying new items which allow these pieces to have a second chance after one cycle of use. Before snapping up a new item ask yourself if you wear this item enough to justify its purchase or are you better off sourcing it via another means?